Hermès HSS Kelly 28 Epsom Gold Hardware – Bi-Color Raisin & Gris Étain

The Hermès Kelly 28 is one of the maison's most recognizable handbag silhouettes, combining structured elegance, equestrian heritage, and meticulous French craftsmanship. When produced as a Horseshoe Special Order (HSS) in a bi-color combination of Raisin and Gris Étain Epsom leather with gold hardware, the classic Kelly takes on an especially distinctive character. This particular configuration is documented as a 2018 HSS Kelly 28, featuring Epsom leather in Raisin and Gris Étain and brushed gold hardware. Its 28 cm format provides the proportions traditionally associated with the Kelly 28 while the two-color construction gives the structured silhouette an individual, made-to-order identity.

The HSS Special-Order Character

The Horseshoe Stamp (HSS) is associated with Hermès Special Order pieces. Rather than being a standard colorway selected from the regular collection, a Special Order Kelly represents a customized combination of materials, colors, and hardware permitted within Hermès' special-order framework. The HSS designation is particularly meaningful on a bi-color Kelly because the color pairing becomes an important part of the bag's identity. In this configuration, Raisin and Gris Étain create a sophisticated contrast between deep, wine-inspired purple-brown and refined gray. The documented example was produced in 2018 and carries the Horseshoe Stamp, confirming its Special Order character.

The Kelly 28 Silhouette

At approximately 28 × 21 × 10 cm, the Kelly 28 occupies a versatile position within the Kelly family. It is large enough to accommodate everyday essentials while retaining the elegant, proportionate appearance that makes the Kelly suitable for formal occasions. The Sellier construction emphasizes the geometry of the design. Its sharply defined edges create a crisp outline, while the triangular flap and structured body preserve the architectural character of the original Kelly silhouette. The curved top handle allows the bag to be carried by hand or in the crook of the arm, while the detachable shoulder strap provides another carrying option.

Bi-Color Raisin and Gris Étain Epsom Leather

The defining feature of this HSS Kelly is its bi-color Epsom leather construction.

Raisin

Raisin is a deep, sophisticated Hermès shade with rich purple-brown undertones. Its dark coloration gives the bag depth without the visual severity of pure black. On a structured Kelly, Raisin has a particularly refined presence. The color works naturally with gold hardware, creating a warm and luxurious contrast.

Gris Étain

Gris Étain provides the second half of the composition. This elegant gray has a cool, understated quality that gives the bag a contemporary neutral dimension. Rather than simply functioning as a secondary color, Gris Étain provides visual balance to the darker Raisin. The combination creates a palette that can move comfortably between understated daytime dressing and more formal evening styling.

The Bi-Color Effect

The attraction of this Special Order lies in the relationship between the two shades. Raisin contributes richness and depth, while Gris Étain introduces a lighter neutral counterpoint. Because both colors are presented in Epsom leather, the surface retains a consistent texture and structured appearance throughout the bi-color design.

Epsom Calfskin

Epsom is a pressed-grain calfskin recognized for its finely defined, regular texture and structured appearance. Its character makes it especially well suited to the Sellier Kelly. The leather maintains crisp edges and helps emphasize the geometric construction of the handbag. The embossed grain also gives the surface a distinctive visual texture. Compared with smoother leathers, Epsom presents a more uniform finish and generally maintains the structured appearance associated with a Sellier Kelly. The documented HSS Raisin and Gris Étain example specifically uses Epsom leather, making the leather choice an important part of the bag's overall architectural character.

Gold Hardware

The Raisin and Gris Étain palette is complemented by gold hardware, with the documented HSS example described as having brushed gold hardware. Gold hardware introduces warmth against both colors. Against Raisin, it creates a rich, tonal-luxury effect; against Gris Étain, the gold provides a more noticeable contrast. The principal hardware elements include the Kelly's signature turn-lock mechanism, hardware securing the handle, strap attachments, and protective feet.

The Signature Kelly Closure

The front of the bag features the iconic Kelly closure system. Two leather straps extend across the front of the bag and meet at the central turn-lock. The lock can be secured with the accompanying padlock, while the clochette houses the keys. This combination of functional security and recognizable design is one of the defining characteristics of the Kelly. The hardware is not merely decorative. It forms an integral part of the bag's architecture, reinforcing the structured flap and front profile.

Rolled Top Handle

The Kelly 28 features a single rolled leather top handle. Its curved form contrasts with the angular Sellier body, introducing a softer element into the otherwise geometric design. The handle allows the handbag to be carried elegantly by hand, making it particularly appropriate for occasions where the bag is intended to remain close to the body.

Detachable Shoulder Strap

A removable shoulder strap accompanies the Kelly 28, expanding its versatility. The bag can therefore be carried traditionally by hand or worn from the shoulder, depending on the occasion. For daytime use, the shoulder strap can provide greater freedom of movement, while hand carrying highlights the formal character of the Kelly.

Interior Organization

The Kelly 28's interior is designed around practicality while maintaining the luxurious character expected of a Hermès handbag. Comparable documented Kelly 28 Sellier examples feature leather-lined interiors with a zippered pocket and two open pockets. The interior organization provides convenient spaces for smaller essentials while leaving the central compartment available for everyday belongings. The structured construction also helps the bag maintain its organized shape when carried.

Dimensions and Everyday Capacity

The documented HSS example measures approximately:

• Width: 28 cm
• Height: 21 cm
• Depth: 10 cm

These proportions place the Kelly 28 in a particularly versatile category. It offers more usable space than the smaller Kelly formats while remaining substantially more compact than the larger Kelly sizes. It can comfortably accommodate typical daily essentials such as a smartphone, wallet, keys, sunglasses, cosmetics, and other small personal items, depending on how the interior is organized.

Clochette, Lock and Keys

The traditional Kelly accessories are an important part of the design. The leather clochette is attached to the bag and houses the keys. The accompanying padlock and keys complement the central Kelly turn-lock and reinforce the handbag's distinctive equestrian-inspired identity. These details also contribute to the unmistakable appearance of the Kelly when viewed from the front.

Sellier Construction and Structured Elegance

The Sellier construction is central to the visual appeal of this HSS Kelly. Instead of soft, rounded edges, the Sellier technique emphasizes the exterior construction and crisp seams. The result is a handbag with pronounced corners, defined edges, and an almost architectural profile. Epsom leather complements this construction particularly well because its pressed grain and structured nature help preserve the clean geometry of the silhouette. The result is a Kelly that looks polished and deliberate from every angle.

Raisin, Gris Étain and Gold: A Sophisticated Palette

The color combination gives this Special Order Kelly a distinctly versatile personality. Raisin introduces depth and richness, Gris Étain supplies a refined neutral element, and gold hardware adds warmth. Together, these elements create a palette that is sophisticated without relying on a single-color design. The bi-color construction also allows the bag to coordinate with a broader range of clothing and accessories. The darker Raisin component can complement evening tailoring, jewel tones, black, navy, and rich neutrals, while Gris Étain can harmonize with gray, beige, white, taupe, and other understated shades.

Day-to-Evening Versatility

The Kelly 28's proportions make it appropriate for a wide range of occasions. During the day, the shoulder strap can transform the structured handbag into a more practical accessory. For professional settings, the Sellier construction and restrained color palette provide a polished appearance. For evening occasions, carrying the bag by its top handle emphasizes its formal character. The combination of deep Raisin, elegant gray, and gold hardware also works naturally with cocktail dresses, evening tailoring, and sophisticated separates.

Craftsmanship

Every component of the Kelly contributes to its finished appearance, from the precision of the Sellier seams to the placement of the hardware and construction of the handle. On a Special Order example, the craftsmanship is complemented by the deliberate selection of the color combination. The Raisin and Gris Étain pairing transforms a familiar Kelly silhouette into a more individualized expression. The HSS designation further distinguishes the piece from a standard Kelly colorway.

Care and Maintenance

Epsom leather is valued for its structured appearance, but careful handling is still important. The bag should be protected from prolonged exposure to moisture, excessive heat, and direct sunlight. When not in use, storing the Kelly in its appropriate dust bag and keeping it upright can help preserve its shape. Avoid placing heavy objects inside the handbag for extended periods, as unnecessary weight can place stress on the leather and structure. The gold hardware should also be handled carefully to minimize scratches. A soft, dry cloth can be used for gentle surface maintenance, while more substantial cleaning or restoration is best entrusted to professionals experienced with Hermès leather goods.

A Distinctive Special-Order Kelly

The Hermès HSS Kelly 28 Epsom Gold Hardware in Bi-Color Raisin & Gris Étain combines several defining elements of the Kelly tradition: a structured Sellier silhouette, finely grained Epsom leather, the iconic Kelly closure, removable shoulder strap, and carefully finished gold hardware. Its individuality comes from the Special Order color pairing. Raisin provides richness and depth, while Gris Étain introduces a refined gray contrast. Together, they create a balanced composition that remains unmistakably Hermès while offering a more personalized aesthetic. At 28 cm, the format also maintains a practical balance between presence and portability. It is sufficiently substantial for everyday use while retaining the refined proportions that have made the Kelly one of the maison's most enduring handbag designs.

Final Thoughts

The HSS Kelly 28 in Raisin and Gris Étain Epsom with Gold Hardware is a sophisticated interpretation of the classic Kelly. Its appeal lies not only in the recognizable silhouette but also in the thoughtful relationship between its two colors, structured Epsom leather, and warm metallic hardware. As a Special Order piece, the bi-color construction gives the handbag a distinctive identity while preserving the timeless architecture of the Kelly 28. The result is a polished, versatile handbag that combines Hermès craftsmanship with the individualized character associated with HSS creations. For more info